Bhutan :Thimpu Tshechu
Back to Thimpu
After spending two nights at Bumthang, it was time to move on and the next pitstop was Thimpu. Was a the bus stand at 5:30a.m. in freezing cold to start the 12 hour long bumpy ride to Thimpu.
It was just my luck that Tshechu(festival ) was scheduled at Thimpu and I wanted to take part in the festivities. Its a 3day annual festival that attracts tourists from around Bhutan and other countries. I had called up a hotel the previous night ,to book an accommodation since I had heard it would be tough to find a room during this time. After a long journey over the evergreen mountains reached Thimpu in the evening and went to the hotel but was told nothing was there on my name, I hadn't called etc etc. I showed them my mobile call list but nothing they could do at that moment. So I walked across the street to the hotel, where I had spent my first night at Bhutan. Had called them earlier but even they had told me nothing was free. However, found that they had an empty room and was happy to checkin immediately. Hotel was clean ,double bed with TV and wifi at their restaurant. After a bit of rest , went down and walked around town and could see lot of foreign tourists and people. All the shops were doing brisk business as well. Quite a change from the sparse population at the other places that week. Found Ambient Cafe around the corner and decided to have dinner there. Nice little place with comfortable interiors and one could be transported to a cafe any part of the world. It had all kinds of Italian, Mediterranean stuff , including sandwiches etc. Free Wifi too !! They were playing good old Mark Knofler and Songs from 'Sailing in Philadelphia' playing. It took me back to the time when I had picked up the cassette and was hooked to those songs. The owner started talking and mentioned he had studied in Bangalore. Had a nice plate of spaghetti and hot chocolate and exchanged a few emails with friends and folks and thats how the day ended.
Thimpu Tschechu
Tschechu is a 3day festival and its believed that the ones that witness the festival will be bestowed with luck and their wishes are fulfilled .
The first day of Thimphu Tshechu showcases the Shacham (stag dance) where dancers wearing knee length costumes and stag masks perform a dance depicting the subjugation of the evil wind king by Guru Rinpochhe, the Pelage Gingsum (The three kings of Ging), depicts the victory of good over evil, and the Pacham (dance of the heroes) shows how the people who have performed good deeds are led to Guru Rinpochhe after their life on earth has ended.
The second day introduces the spectacular Zhana Cham, where dancers representing yogis who have the power to take and recreate life, are dressed in large black hats and brocade. The mesmerizing Zhana Nga Chham follows, where the dancers perform a victory with drums following the destruction of evil.
The final day introduces the more menacing dances- Durdag is performed with skull masks and depict the lords of the cremation grounds subjugating the demons who harm tantric Buddhism, Tungam is again performed with terrifying masks, and depict Guru Rinpochhe waging a war against demonic powers, and Raksha Marcham depicts the judgement of the dead.
Wokeup really early , with a chill in the air and walked down to the street to find some tea and found that the street was closed for all traffic and people were setting up shops on the street. After some hot chai got back and by that time the hotel lady was there and asked if I could get some breakfast so that I could start walking to the Dzong around 730am . She was more than happy to prepare alu parathas and tea before that and I started walking towards the Festivities.
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Its a longish walk across to the end of Norzim la and then further. I asked few people who were around and they guided me towards the direction. As I started walking after a road crossing , I found a monk walking and some local people walking ahead. Few taxis with tourists coming from somewhere and the Dzong visible at a distance. The monk was not able to converse in English or Hindi and he figured I was going there and he asked me to follow him all the way. It was walking through nice tree lined path all the way.
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Once we reached the dzong, he still asked me to follow him and I found some other monks there in the crowd right at the centre of the big amphitheater area , who were waiting for him. They had kept some place and asked me to sit with them. The place was crowded and soon every inch of space was taken . All the nationals were in their traditional attire (compulsory) . The show began at 9am sharp and there were mask dancers, traditional songs, drama etc. and one of the monk who know English would explain things at the start. In the morning it was cold but as the day progressed , the mountain sun took over and all of us were roasted :) . The heat was actually unbearable. Soon fruits, drinks , food items were taken out by the monks and they shared it with me. I initially refused but they wouldn't let me go. Unfortunately I had just a fruit bun and water and I passed the fruit bun around and they had it with a smile. After spending better part of the day there , i bid them goodbye and started walking back to the hotel. Later in the evening , walked around and picked up some books from Junction Bookstore and was all set for the next stop .
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After spending two nights at Bumthang, it was time to move on and the next pitstop was Thimpu. Was a the bus stand at 5:30a.m. in freezing cold to start the 12 hour long bumpy ride to Thimpu.
It was just my luck that Tshechu(festival ) was scheduled at Thimpu and I wanted to take part in the festivities. Its a 3day annual festival that attracts tourists from around Bhutan and other countries. I had called up a hotel the previous night ,to book an accommodation since I had heard it would be tough to find a room during this time. After a long journey over the evergreen mountains reached Thimpu in the evening and went to the hotel but was told nothing was there on my name, I hadn't called etc etc. I showed them my mobile call list but nothing they could do at that moment. So I walked across the street to the hotel, where I had spent my first night at Bhutan. Had called them earlier but even they had told me nothing was free. However, found that they had an empty room and was happy to checkin immediately. Hotel was clean ,double bed with TV and wifi at their restaurant. After a bit of rest , went down and walked around town and could see lot of foreign tourists and people. All the shops were doing brisk business as well. Quite a change from the sparse population at the other places that week. Found Ambient Cafe around the corner and decided to have dinner there. Nice little place with comfortable interiors and one could be transported to a cafe any part of the world. It had all kinds of Italian, Mediterranean stuff , including sandwiches etc. Free Wifi too !! They were playing good old Mark Knofler and Songs from 'Sailing in Philadelphia' playing. It took me back to the time when I had picked up the cassette and was hooked to those songs. The owner started talking and mentioned he had studied in Bangalore. Had a nice plate of spaghetti and hot chocolate and exchanged a few emails with friends and folks and thats how the day ended.
Thimpu Tschechu
Tschechu is a 3day festival and its believed that the ones that witness the festival will be bestowed with luck and their wishes are fulfilled .
The first day of Thimphu Tshechu showcases the Shacham (stag dance) where dancers wearing knee length costumes and stag masks perform a dance depicting the subjugation of the evil wind king by Guru Rinpochhe, the Pelage Gingsum (The three kings of Ging), depicts the victory of good over evil, and the Pacham (dance of the heroes) shows how the people who have performed good deeds are led to Guru Rinpochhe after their life on earth has ended.
The second day introduces the spectacular Zhana Cham, where dancers representing yogis who have the power to take and recreate life, are dressed in large black hats and brocade. The mesmerizing Zhana Nga Chham follows, where the dancers perform a victory with drums following the destruction of evil.
The final day introduces the more menacing dances- Durdag is performed with skull masks and depict the lords of the cremation grounds subjugating the demons who harm tantric Buddhism, Tungam is again performed with terrifying masks, and depict Guru Rinpochhe waging a war against demonic powers, and Raksha Marcham depicts the judgement of the dead.
Wokeup really early , with a chill in the air and walked down to the street to find some tea and found that the street was closed for all traffic and people were setting up shops on the street. After some hot chai got back and by that time the hotel lady was there and asked if I could get some breakfast so that I could start walking to the Dzong around 730am . She was more than happy to prepare alu parathas and tea before that and I started walking towards the Festivities.
.JPG)
Its a longish walk across to the end of Norzim la and then further. I asked few people who were around and they guided me towards the direction. As I started walking after a road crossing , I found a monk walking and some local people walking ahead. Few taxis with tourists coming from somewhere and the Dzong visible at a distance. The monk was not able to converse in English or Hindi and he figured I was going there and he asked me to follow him all the way. It was walking through nice tree lined path all the way.
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Once we reached the dzong, he still asked me to follow him and I found some other monks there in the crowd right at the centre of the big amphitheater area , who were waiting for him. They had kept some place and asked me to sit with them. The place was crowded and soon every inch of space was taken . All the nationals were in their traditional attire (compulsory) . The show began at 9am sharp and there were mask dancers, traditional songs, drama etc. and one of the monk who know English would explain things at the start. In the morning it was cold but as the day progressed , the mountain sun took over and all of us were roasted :) . The heat was actually unbearable. Soon fruits, drinks , food items were taken out by the monks and they shared it with me. I initially refused but they wouldn't let me go. Unfortunately I had just a fruit bun and water and I passed the fruit bun around and they had it with a smile. After spending better part of the day there , i bid them goodbye and started walking back to the hotel. Later in the evening , walked around and picked up some books from Junction Bookstore and was all set for the next stop .
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