On the Buddha Trail (4) ::::::MacLeodGanj

Here's the 4th one, after the first few ones (incase you are still interested with my semi literate writing skills!!) :
On the Buddha Trail (1) ::::::Tabo
On the Buddha Trail (2) ::::::Kibber
On the Buddha Trail (3) ::::::Nako

The bus reached Dharmsala bustop around 5a.m. and I had to wait for the next bus to MacLeodGanj at 8a.m. I could have possibly walked and taken a share jeep but decided against it since there was no real advantage getting there so early with guesthouses having checkin only at noon. Went and rested at the Canteen at the bus stop, where a very friendly attendant , made hot tea, omelet and toast (costed me only 8 Rs!!). The overcrowded bus that left at 8a.m. was at MacLeodGanj in half an hour. I tried getting a room at two of the Guesthouses recommended by a fellow traveller but both were full. Had my breakfast and was waiting for a checkout at the recommended guesthouse but I wasn't in for luck that day. I then started walking around and found a nice clean room at Loseling Monastery Guesthouse for just Rs100. I just hit the sack for the next few hours after an entire nights bus travel.

MacLeod has around 5 main roads that lead to various places outside. It was established in mid 1850's as a British Garrison and was also home to semi nomadic people called Gaddi, as such in todays time a bit touristy since loads of tourists/travellers come here with the Tibetan Govt. in exile and Dalai Lama's presence there. I was again back to seeing a sea of human faces as compared to a few. However, there were tons of food options from Indian and Tibetan to Italian and Chinese, accessed my mail after 10days etc, however missed the freshly made Tibetan breads from Spiti !!

As I walked around the first evening, i went out of the main market section towards the outskirts and came across a beautiful trail off the road and saw a few people going that way and followed them. The path was beautiful with great views and player flags and prayer stones alongside. After walking for awhile, while I was resting at one of the benches, I met an elderly Tibetan gentleman who came and sat down for a breather as well. We got talking and he mentioned he was a recently retired Govt. official in exile, where he served for 35years. He was born in Tibet and really got Nostalgic about his country and how he escaped in 1951, as a teenager and then came to MacleodGanj. We sat there talking about Tibetan history, how Chinese in the name of liberation destroyed thousands of monasteries(6000+) and are trying end to the Tibetan way of life and culture. He told me in a very philosophical way , why Tibet including Dalai Lama choose India to be the base in their struggle freedom, instead of so many other offers from bigger super powers.He said the child(Tibet) was back near it's mother (India) in times of need, since Buddhism travelled to Tibet from India in the 8th Century.

As we kept talking he invited me over for a cup of coffee nearby and as we walked away from the quiet wilderness, he mentioned that the trail( almost 2kms) was called Kora(Circuit) and most Tibetan pilgrims make KORA of Tsuglagkhang Complex (temple and Dalai Lama's residence) in clockwise direction.
Over coffee, I got to know about Bompa (an ancient Religion) that existed before Buddhism was introduced in Tibet in the 8th century from India. Before Buddhism reached Tibet, the Tibetans were a warrior class, trying to grab kingdoms etc. and had even ruled parts of China earlier and it was Buddhism that brought a change there. He also mentioned I should get to holy Rewalsar Lake (near Mandi) and Monastery from where Guru Pema Sambhava (who was the Indian Tantric sage who took Buddhism from India to Tibet in the 8th Century) mediated in the caves . It was a nice and educative evening where I learnt a lot more about Tibet etc. I also asked him whether my perception about young Tibetans wanting to go west from whatever articles i had read so was true, and he sadly agreed to that. Both his children and wife left for Canada few years back in search of a better life but he doesn't want to settle there since he doesn't feel spiritually connected. I met him again the next few days around town and he recognised me by name :).

I never planned even thought of visiting MacLeodGanj, when I set out on my trip, but the bad weather and early snow at Spiti made me decide to head out a few days early. I was lucky again since Dalai Lama was taking a 4 day session for some korean monks every morning from 8-11am and everybody else could also get to attend it. I wanted attend the first day session but didn't have a pass( required for security reason) since the security office had already closed by the time I came to know about these morning sessions. However, I wanted to try my luck and walked into the temple early next morning with all the metal detectors and security checks etc. but again got lucky when i wasn't asked for a pass. Big suprise for me since I saw everybody else including the monks having one. I guess since I wanted to attend those sessions really badly it just worked out. I would have been really disappointed to comeback. The sessions I attended over the next few days was quite interesting ,where lots of Buddhist philosophy (most offshoots from the Hindu philosophy) was discussed-like Ego, Karma,Emptiness, about knowing your self , desires, meditation etc.

Other then attending these sessions I went out for nice walks outside the main town -Bhagsu, Triund, the waterfall, old Church.

I also visited the Norbulinka Institute, an institute started to preserve Tibetan culture. The place has been built in Japanese Style and has various sections where Thangka,woodwork, metal, tailoring etc. are taught. It also had a really nice Doll Museum and Temple. A must see.

After spending a few days here, it was time to head back to the modern world.




Pics from this trip:

• Tabo
• Manali-Kaza
• Kibber
• Nako
• MacLeodGanj

Other related posts:

• On the Buddha Trail (1) ::::::Tabo

• On the Buddha Trail (2) ::::::Kibber

• On the Buddha Trail (3) ::::::Nako

• On the Buddha Trail (4) ::::::MacLeodGanj