Exploring Some Active Volcanoes in Java
This is post on my wanderings around some active volcanoes in Java.
31st March Jakarta
I reached Jakarta on Saturday morning and after getting the Visa on Arrival stamped (25$) , took the Damri Bus (Shuttle service from Airport) to the Gambir Train Station. It was quite humid and there was some rain as the bus passed through the polluted streets of Jakarta. I managed to get an evening train ticket out to Surabaya. The train station was fairly big with lots of eating joints and convenient stores and I spent all my time walking around , grabbing some food till the train took off.
1st April Surabaya
The overnight train to Surabaya was AirCon Chair Car with lots of leg room and luggage lofts and reached the pit stop at 7:30am about 2hrs late. I walked out of the train station and bought myself tea and then found taxi drivers trying to talk me into taking a ride just like it happens in India. I had the details about getting to a hostel by local bus and after talking around found my way around.
Da-Rifi the hostel that I found on the internet was highly recommend but quite a distance away from the city and located at a serene residential area. After dumping by luggage and having breakfast I just dozed off for few hours after 1.5 days in transit . The lady who was running the hostel was very helpful and had loads of info and we were the only ones around since I was the sole traveler staying over . During the day I just walked around got myself some food and stuff from the super market nearby and then spent time listening to music on the rooftop garden. The plan was to goto the BANK ATM next day since Sunday was a holiday and then head to the next pit stop.
2nd April Surabaya--Probolinggo -- Cemoro Lawang -- Mount Bromo
There had been heavy downpour that night and it was dark and cloudy when I woke up the next morning. I was in a bit of dilemma since rain meant not being able to see the active volcano, my next destination. So I decided to walk to the bank and exchange some currency and then figure out where to head next. Exchanging currency in Indonesia turned out to be quite a struggle (it was easy at the airport but had only par taken a small amount). The banks are finicky about having crisp US dollars and I walked around quite a bit across few banks and then had to settle for a lower rate. On the way back, I was wondering whether to head to Mount Bromo or change my plans and head to Yogajakarta instead , because of the looming rain . I had to take a call once I was back at the hostel, even the hostel lady thought I should change my plans and I couldn't delay it further since connecting bus would be an issue late in the evening.. Over tea and more brooding , I took a call of sticking to my original plan and go with the flow of events.. So I headed from the hostel to Bungurasih bus terminal (also called Purabaya) in the city and then took an express air-conditioned bus for the 2 to 3 hr journey from Surabaya to Probolinggo.
As I was waiting at Probolinggo bus station , some travel agents spoke to me about short tour of Mount Ijen. While reading up about Java before setting out , I had come across the beautiful surroundings and crater out there but had also read that one couldn't do it on ones own or use local transport but a tour had to be taken up. The tour operator did talk me into the tour and mentioned there were two tours (jeep) leaving in the next couple of days. My plan so far was going better than expected and had already saved a day so I paid up some advance for the Ijen Tour after 2 days and took the local minibus to Cemoro Lawang.
The journey (close to 2hrs) was over picturesque surroundings and green forests and later winding misty mountains and was at Cemoro Lawang by 4pm. The bus stopped at a local hotel which was fairly expensive and so I spoke around for a local homestay which was one third the cost.
The area in and around the park is inhabited by the Tenggerese, one of the few significant Hindu communities left on the island of Java along with Bali. The homestay I was staying at was also inhabited by a hindu family with a few rooms for guests. I dumped by bags in the room and just came out and started walking around the peaceful village and misty mountains.. One road lead to the view of Mount Bromo while the others were surrounding by green vegetable plantations with looming mountains.I could also see the smoke coming off the volcano .
Ancient Hindu Texts talk about how Bromo-Penanjakin-Semeru was the spiritual axis of the Universe and the point of all creation .Mount Semeri is the tallest peak in Java and also one of the most active volcanoes and it erupts periodically every half hour or so and belches out a huge cloud of steam and smoke.
I now had to think over how to get to the Volcano early next morning and decided to take a bike ride to the base.
Viewpoint #1:Cemoro Lawang to Mount Penanjakan
One can walk from the village to base in about 2hrs in pitch dark with a flashlight across farms and fields. From the base its another half hours walk trail upwards. I wasn't sure I could do it alone with no maps and also from the safety ascpect so I spoke to the homestay owner and negotiated a reasonable rate for a bike ride upto the base.
Viewpoint #2 :Mount Bromo
This is about another hours walk from the village to the base of Mount Bromo which has a Hindu temple (Poten) at the foot of the mountain. From the temple a steep path of 250 concrete steps leads to the edge of the crater and a precarious meter-wide ledge from where you can gaze into the steaming crater.
After an early dinner at a local house I headed back to get some rest and as I sat outside in the serene surroundings , I was surrounded by clear star studded skies and looming mountains and could see some frequent eruptions at a distance. My only wish was that the weather remained good in the morning.
3rd April Mount Bromo
I heard at knock at my door around 3:30am and I quickly geared up (thermal tee and a fleece )for my first Volcanic Experience :) since it was cold outside. The bike thundered its way across almost non-existent roads and pitch darkness ,I came across few people walking the route. The bike could goto a certain point only since there had been landslides earlier, so I figured where I could locate him on the way back and started my hike up at 10,000ft to Mount Penanjakan. There were some tea stalls at that point and it was hard to resist one after ride out in the cold, so after a hot cup started slowly climbing up with a flashlight. It took about half hour and a descent workout at 10,000ft meant removing a few layers of warm clothing.
The view from there that covered the mountain ranges was spectacular. It was dark all around and clouds were floating around the ranges and very often the smoke from the volcano was visible.. There were few travelers around and more climbing up t. As the sun started to ride the hues of the sky was worth the climb , I was crimson orange all around with floating clouds around the mountain ranges. The climb down was much easier and then found Aryan and took the bike to the other viewing point at Mount Bromo.
As we started I could see all the farms (rice,potatoes etc) and the mountains all around and followed by huge stretches of wide lava land (dry of course) but it was freezing cold and even my spectacles had mist and could barely see anything infront .
There was a hindu temple at the base and a bunch of bikes waiting alongside horses with their owners who had great similarity to the Peruvians ,not to forget the surroundings. From the temple base its a good walk and another 250 steps up to the ledge of Mount Bromo with smoke belching out. The edge was pretty narrow and I was a little afraid to be frank .
The climb down and bike ride to the homestay was easy . I came back and after a bit of rest and lunch wanted to walk around but heavy downpour started and went through the night. I had been just lucky or blessed to have found a clear morning sky to visit the Volcano.
So after spending the rest of the day reading 'Piano Tuner' an interesting work of fiction about Burma.. I packed up my belongings and was looking forward to another volcano visit.
4th April Mount Bromo to Mount Ijen
Took the local mini-bus back to Probolinggo and found a place serving vegetarian Nasi Gorang and walked over to the office of travel agent for the Ijen tour.
There was a brand new Toyato Avanza and 2 others travelers and we hit the road again. We speeded through some towns and then green forests into the remote mountain ranges of Ijen and heavy rain followed us all the way. The travelers turned out to be two fresh college grads from canada who had been traveling around SE Asia for 7months and were on there last leg and we had some interesting conversations on the way and also that night at the Homestay at the base .
5th April Mount Ijen
We woke up at 5am and after a bit of worry, the previous night with the bad weather (no rain gear and the volcano access closed and such) . It turned out to be another lucky day. It was cloudy but wasn't raining and took the jeep to the base of Mount Ijen.
Ijen is a Grade 3 active volcano and sulphur mining was still being done there. The climb at 10,000ft , with beautiful mountain ranges was turning out to be a bit of a task. It was a lot tougher with overnight rain and loose stones all around but the path was wide enough to walk . I did have to take a few minutes break, several times to get used to the altitude and the steep climb up. There were bamboo baskets of sulphur on the way but apparently mining had been closed last few days to excessive fumes. I wondered how the local labourers did several round trips everyday with 90kgs over such a terrain , which was also strewn with fallen trees and such which one had to navigate through.. Quite a test of human endurance.
The view from the peak was out of the world and needs to be experienced . There was a turquoise blue lake below and sulphur deposits and fumes coming up and beautiful mountain ranges all around. Something unique and worth the walk.. The climb down was very easy and mostly short stints of run downhill.
Once at the base , we took the jeep back to Probolinggo and the Canadians got down halfway through to take the bus to Bali. After a long ride back , booked a bus to Yogyakarta and had a 5hrs wait. After lunch , waited around at the bus stand with a book in hand.. The night mini bus started at 6:30pm with only me as the sole person . I was quite tired after an entire day of hiking, travel and tried to catch a shut eye but the road was pretty bad and bumpy !! I was wondering if there would be some other passengers in the 14hrs journey and finally around 1am the whole bus got filled up.
Flickr Pictures :Volcanoes
31st March Jakarta
I reached Jakarta on Saturday morning and after getting the Visa on Arrival stamped (25$) , took the Damri Bus (Shuttle service from Airport) to the Gambir Train Station. It was quite humid and there was some rain as the bus passed through the polluted streets of Jakarta. I managed to get an evening train ticket out to Surabaya. The train station was fairly big with lots of eating joints and convenient stores and I spent all my time walking around , grabbing some food till the train took off.
1st April Surabaya
The overnight train to Surabaya was AirCon Chair Car with lots of leg room and luggage lofts and reached the pit stop at 7:30am about 2hrs late. I walked out of the train station and bought myself tea and then found taxi drivers trying to talk me into taking a ride just like it happens in India. I had the details about getting to a hostel by local bus and after talking around found my way around.
Da-Rifi the hostel that I found on the internet was highly recommend but quite a distance away from the city and located at a serene residential area. After dumping by luggage and having breakfast I just dozed off for few hours after 1.5 days in transit . The lady who was running the hostel was very helpful and had loads of info and we were the only ones around since I was the sole traveler staying over . During the day I just walked around got myself some food and stuff from the super market nearby and then spent time listening to music on the rooftop garden. The plan was to goto the BANK ATM next day since Sunday was a holiday and then head to the next pit stop.
2nd April Surabaya--Probolinggo -- Cemoro Lawang -- Mount Bromo
There had been heavy downpour that night and it was dark and cloudy when I woke up the next morning. I was in a bit of dilemma since rain meant not being able to see the active volcano, my next destination. So I decided to walk to the bank and exchange some currency and then figure out where to head next. Exchanging currency in Indonesia turned out to be quite a struggle (it was easy at the airport but had only par taken a small amount). The banks are finicky about having crisp US dollars and I walked around quite a bit across few banks and then had to settle for a lower rate. On the way back, I was wondering whether to head to Mount Bromo or change my plans and head to Yogajakarta instead , because of the looming rain . I had to take a call once I was back at the hostel, even the hostel lady thought I should change my plans and I couldn't delay it further since connecting bus would be an issue late in the evening.. Over tea and more brooding , I took a call of sticking to my original plan and go with the flow of events.. So I headed from the hostel to Bungurasih bus terminal (also called Purabaya) in the city and then took an express air-conditioned bus for the 2 to 3 hr journey from Surabaya to Probolinggo.
As I was waiting at Probolinggo bus station , some travel agents spoke to me about short tour of Mount Ijen. While reading up about Java before setting out , I had come across the beautiful surroundings and crater out there but had also read that one couldn't do it on ones own or use local transport but a tour had to be taken up. The tour operator did talk me into the tour and mentioned there were two tours (jeep) leaving in the next couple of days. My plan so far was going better than expected and had already saved a day so I paid up some advance for the Ijen Tour after 2 days and took the local minibus to Cemoro Lawang.
The journey (close to 2hrs) was over picturesque surroundings and green forests and later winding misty mountains and was at Cemoro Lawang by 4pm. The bus stopped at a local hotel which was fairly expensive and so I spoke around for a local homestay which was one third the cost.
The area in and around the park is inhabited by the Tenggerese, one of the few significant Hindu communities left on the island of Java along with Bali. The homestay I was staying at was also inhabited by a hindu family with a few rooms for guests. I dumped by bags in the room and just came out and started walking around the peaceful village and misty mountains.. One road lead to the view of Mount Bromo while the others were surrounding by green vegetable plantations with looming mountains.I could also see the smoke coming off the volcano .
Ancient Hindu Texts talk about how Bromo-Penanjakin-Semeru was the spiritual axis of the Universe and the point of all creation .Mount Semeri is the tallest peak in Java and also one of the most active volcanoes and it erupts periodically every half hour or so and belches out a huge cloud of steam and smoke.
I now had to think over how to get to the Volcano early next morning and decided to take a bike ride to the base.
Viewpoint #1:Cemoro Lawang to Mount Penanjakan
One can walk from the village to base in about 2hrs in pitch dark with a flashlight across farms and fields. From the base its another half hours walk trail upwards. I wasn't sure I could do it alone with no maps and also from the safety ascpect so I spoke to the homestay owner and negotiated a reasonable rate for a bike ride upto the base.
Viewpoint #2 :Mount Bromo
This is about another hours walk from the village to the base of Mount Bromo which has a Hindu temple (Poten) at the foot of the mountain. From the temple a steep path of 250 concrete steps leads to the edge of the crater and a precarious meter-wide ledge from where you can gaze into the steaming crater.
After an early dinner at a local house I headed back to get some rest and as I sat outside in the serene surroundings , I was surrounded by clear star studded skies and looming mountains and could see some frequent eruptions at a distance. My only wish was that the weather remained good in the morning.
3rd April Mount Bromo
I heard at knock at my door around 3:30am and I quickly geared up (thermal tee and a fleece )for my first Volcanic Experience :) since it was cold outside. The bike thundered its way across almost non-existent roads and pitch darkness ,I came across few people walking the route. The bike could goto a certain point only since there had been landslides earlier, so I figured where I could locate him on the way back and started my hike up at 10,000ft to Mount Penanjakan. There were some tea stalls at that point and it was hard to resist one after ride out in the cold, so after a hot cup started slowly climbing up with a flashlight. It took about half hour and a descent workout at 10,000ft meant removing a few layers of warm clothing.
The view from there that covered the mountain ranges was spectacular. It was dark all around and clouds were floating around the ranges and very often the smoke from the volcano was visible.. There were few travelers around and more climbing up t. As the sun started to ride the hues of the sky was worth the climb , I was crimson orange all around with floating clouds around the mountain ranges. The climb down was much easier and then found Aryan and took the bike to the other viewing point at Mount Bromo.
As we started I could see all the farms (rice,potatoes etc) and the mountains all around and followed by huge stretches of wide lava land (dry of course) but it was freezing cold and even my spectacles had mist and could barely see anything infront .
There was a hindu temple at the base and a bunch of bikes waiting alongside horses with their owners who had great similarity to the Peruvians ,not to forget the surroundings. From the temple base its a good walk and another 250 steps up to the ledge of Mount Bromo with smoke belching out. The edge was pretty narrow and I was a little afraid to be frank .
The climb down and bike ride to the homestay was easy . I came back and after a bit of rest and lunch wanted to walk around but heavy downpour started and went through the night. I had been just lucky or blessed to have found a clear morning sky to visit the Volcano.
So after spending the rest of the day reading 'Piano Tuner' an interesting work of fiction about Burma.. I packed up my belongings and was looking forward to another volcano visit.
4th April Mount Bromo to Mount Ijen
Took the local mini-bus back to Probolinggo and found a place serving vegetarian Nasi Gorang and walked over to the office of travel agent for the Ijen tour.
There was a brand new Toyato Avanza and 2 others travelers and we hit the road again. We speeded through some towns and then green forests into the remote mountain ranges of Ijen and heavy rain followed us all the way. The travelers turned out to be two fresh college grads from canada who had been traveling around SE Asia for 7months and were on there last leg and we had some interesting conversations on the way and also that night at the Homestay at the base .
5th April Mount Ijen
We woke up at 5am and after a bit of worry, the previous night with the bad weather (no rain gear and the volcano access closed and such) . It turned out to be another lucky day. It was cloudy but wasn't raining and took the jeep to the base of Mount Ijen.
Ijen is a Grade 3 active volcano and sulphur mining was still being done there. The climb at 10,000ft , with beautiful mountain ranges was turning out to be a bit of a task. It was a lot tougher with overnight rain and loose stones all around but the path was wide enough to walk . I did have to take a few minutes break, several times to get used to the altitude and the steep climb up. There were bamboo baskets of sulphur on the way but apparently mining had been closed last few days to excessive fumes. I wondered how the local labourers did several round trips everyday with 90kgs over such a terrain , which was also strewn with fallen trees and such which one had to navigate through.. Quite a test of human endurance.
The view from the peak was out of the world and needs to be experienced . There was a turquoise blue lake below and sulphur deposits and fumes coming up and beautiful mountain ranges all around. Something unique and worth the walk.. The climb down was very easy and mostly short stints of run downhill.
Once at the base , we took the jeep back to Probolinggo and the Canadians got down halfway through to take the bus to Bali. After a long ride back , booked a bus to Yogyakarta and had a 5hrs wait. After lunch , waited around at the bus stand with a book in hand.. The night mini bus started at 6:30pm with only me as the sole person . I was quite tired after an entire day of hiking, travel and tried to catch a shut eye but the road was pretty bad and bumpy !! I was wondering if there would be some other passengers in the 14hrs journey and finally around 1am the whole bus got filled up.
Flickr Pictures :Volcanoes
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